Cauliflower cheese + chive

• Put some butter in a big saucepan.

• Is that it? Come on, put some more.

• Add a roughly chopped onion and some garlic. Sweat, don't colour.

• Add some potato, then water, bring to the boil. Simmer for ten. Now, pop in a whole chopped cauliflower. Don't worry if everything is not completely covered but put a lid on if the cauliflower is trying to raise his head above the water. Sometimes you've got to be cruel to be kind.

• When everything is cooked, whiz, adding salt, white pepper and a little water/milk/cream to achieve desired consistency/calories.

• Add cheese in vast quantities. My dearest Cheddar was not returning my calls so I used Vieux Gouda and Cantal. Stir in until melted. Lick the spoon.

• Sprinkle gratuitously with grated cheese and chives and serve with crusty baguette and butter for your ultimate contentment.

What did it taste like? Cauliflower cheese! Which I had not had for many years and was as comforting and tasty as I remember. Perfect for a cool, cloudy day when my little flat would just not warm up.

Tip: Check the cheese is delicious by eating small quantities during the course of the soup-making process.